Last Day in Litchfield

We woke up to our final day in the Northern Territory after a great night's sleep in our cute little hut. We still had things to see in Litchfield National Park before driving back to Darwin.

Buley Rockhole is an awesome place in the park. It's a series of waterfalls and naturally created rock pools. You have hundreds of personal little pools to choose from, and we had fun climbing around in many of them.

Playing in Buley Rockhole.

See the tiny termite mound?

After playing around for awhile, we walked the path to Florence Falls. It was a pleasant walk with informational signs and rainforest-type plants along the way.

Overlook of Florence Falls

We did our last waterfall swim in the Northern Territory here in Florence Falls. There were several other people there (you can drive to it as well), but it wasn't overly crowded. Can you spot Zack's head in this picture?

Zack of course wasn't content with just swimming and relaxing; he had to do a jump.

There were tons of fish underwater. These might be barramundi; I'm not sure. I do know I ate barramundi a few times on this trip-yum!

We enjoyed swimming under the waterfall for awhile before heading back toward Buley Rockhole and our station wagon. We had to go drop off our car in Darwin and catch our flight home.

Our final waterfall swim!

Flying out of Darwin.

Our trip to the Northern Territory was amazing, and we packed a lot into five days. The Yellow Water crocodile cruise and our hike to Edith Falls were probably my favorite parts of the trip, but I have lots of awesome memories. If you're interested in seeing the "real" Australia, and you love outdoor adventures, I would highly recommend a trip to this part of the country. But be prepared for lots of driving...these national parks are big, and they're not right next to each other! Anyway, that's the last of my posts about this trip, so now I can hopefully catch up with posts about lots of other things we've been doing lately.

Living it Up in Litchfield

After visiting the termite mounds in Litchfield National Park, we checked out the lookout platform over Tolmer Falls. You can't go to the bottom of this waterfall, because colonies of rare bats live down there. It's one of the tallest waterfalls in the park, and though the water volume wasn't large while we were there, the height of it made it quite impressive.

Can you spot the swimmers under the waterfall?

Next, we stopped by Wangi Falls. There were tons of huge spiders in the plants along the banks of the plunge pool, so Zack took lots of pictures of those (he's obsessed with spiders). Wangi Falls is a popular swimming spot; many people from Darwin take day trips here to cool off.

These Aboriginal girls talked to us for a little while. They were very interested in where we were from and why we were in Australia. I asked them if they had ever seen crocodiles in this swimming area. They nonchalantly replied, "Of course, but just freshwater ones," and they didn't seem to be worried about it at all!

There aren't many food options in the park, but we found a place called Litchfield Safari Camp where we could get some dinner. It was a family-run operation. The Australian bloke showed us our options on the whiteboard out front, his wife cooked our burgers out back, and his daughter and son helped run the "camp." We felt like total tourists, especially as I snapped pictures of these kangaroos while we waited for our food.

Our last Northern Territory sunset.

Our original plan was to camp back at Wangi Falls, but the heat was so intolerable that we knew we wouldn't get any sleep. Sweat was literally dripping off of our faces. Plus, we didn't have any sleeping bags or pillows (the rental car company was supposed to supply them along with the tent but didn't), and we were tired of sleeping on our clothes. So we drove and found a cute little place to stay for the night, and on our steps, we saw this cool green tree frog. Actually, there were several huge toads around the grounds.

There's one other story about camping that I forgot to mention back in the Kakadu posts, but I want to remember it, so I'll put it here. We had set up our tent at an area called Mardugal after doing the Yellow Water crocodile cruise. There were various signs about crocs in the area (though you see those pretty much everywhere in the Northern Territory), and we were literally the only ones at the campground (low season). So we were lying in the tent, trying to get comfortable and get to sleep on top of our clothes and in the heat, when we suddenly heard noises. Not just normal noises...noises of something moving. Something (or someone!) was taking a few steps, stopping, and then taking some more steps. I promise that this wasn't just the breeze or regular camping noises; trust me-we camp a lot, and I know! So Zack and I, who if you'll remember had just seen over a dozen deadly crocodiles a few hours earlier, started panicking a little bit. Here we were in the middle of a deserted campground and something was definitely out there. So Zack, who I think had watched too many YouTube croc videos, decided we needed to get into the car to protect ourselves. Unfortunately, the noise was coming from the direction of the car. This meant we had to make a run for it! So we made our plan: Zack would unzip the tent, and we'd both make a mad dash for the driver's side door and jump in as soon as he got it unlocked. And that's what we did! I ended up on his lap, as there was no way I was going to run around to the other side of the car and get in that way-that's where the noise was! Then there was the dilemma of getting our tent into the car and getting out of there, as we knew neither of us would sleep well after hearing whatever we heard. So we backed the station wagon right up to the tent with the lights on, Zack quickly jumped out and shoved the whole thing into the trunk, and we drove off to the much more populated (and therefore safer!) Gagudju Lodge campground for a decent night's sleep. Well, as decent as can be had when sleeping on the hard ground in 85+ degree temperatures. I actually ended up moving to the backseat of the car for the early morning hours, because my back and hips hurt so much. Anyway, we'll never know what we heard out there in the wilderness...it could have been a wallaby or a big bird or even just a frog hopping around. But we like to think we escaped certain death from a crocodile dragging us off never to be heard from again!

Tons of Termite Mounds

It looks like a strange type of graveyard, right?

One of our first stops upon arriving in Litchfield National Park on our Northern Territory trip was an area where you could see tons of termite mounds. We had already seen several in Kakadu National Park and while driving all around the Northern Territory, but we hadn't seen so many in one place before. These structures are pretty fascinating. Termites feed on grass and plant debris found in areas that are flooded during the wet season, so they have to live above ground in the mounds. Inside the mounds are complex tunnels, arches, chimneys, insulation, etc.

The compass termite is responsible for making the magnetic termite mounds. These mounds are all aligned in a north-south orientation, with the broad faces aimed east and west. This acts as a temperature control mechanism, allowing the least possible surface area to be exposed to the sun. Our guide on the Kakadu tour told us that the temperature only fluctuates 0.2 degrees within the mound!

Below is a picture of a cathedral mound made by woodland termites. Some of these were massive! In the Kakadu post, I am standing next to one, so you can get an idea of the height. These mounds are made of chewed wood, mud, and feces (yum). If humans made a similar structure, it would be over a kilometer high!

Who knew that termites did something besides eat wood and cause problems?!

Edith Falls Fun

Besides Katherine Gorge, the other main attraction in Nitmiluk National Park is Edith Falls. This was one of my favorite places on our Northern Territory trip. You can swim in the easily accessible pool (that's Edith Falls in the far background) just a short walk from the parking lot, but the real treat comes when you do the Leliyn Loop walk.







The hike gives you great views of the water and vast landscape below.

Then you get a glimpse of the awesomeness that awaits you.

We had these upper pools all to ourselves! It was amazing. And no, there are no crocodiles up in this area of the park!

Zack did some bouldering...





















...while I enjoyed playing in the water.

After an hour or so of enjoying our own private waterfall and rock pools, we continued our hike and got more beautiful views of where we had been.











You sure do feel like you are in the "real" Australia in the Northern Territory. It's pretty darn cool. Well, actually it's pretty darn hot, but you know what I mean! This is my last post about Nitmiluk; my next post will take you to Litchfield National Park (the third and final park of our trip).

Yes, I am a dork who owns an Australian swimsuit. It was $15 and works well for pictures in these settings. Don't judge!

Aboriginal Art in Kakadu (and a Dingo)

Kakadu National Park is home to lots of aboriginal art sites. We visited one called Nourlangie, and it was pretty cool. The rock shelter here has been used for about 20,000 years! I've included some pictures of some of our favorite drawings.

I've included this in case you want to try making some rock art of your own!

This one shows traditional dancing.

This one is called Nabulwinjbulwinj. You say it like Nar-bull-win-bull-win. He's a dangerous spirit who eats females after striking them with a yam. Yikes!

















This is the Anbangbang Gallery, and it includes Namarrgon (the Lightning Man), Barrginj (his wife), Ginga (the great saltwater crocodile), family groups on their way to a ceremony, and Guluibirr (the saratoga fish).

Here's another one of the Lightning Man. Namarrgon is an important Creation Ancestor who is said to be responsible for the violent lightning storms that occur every wet season. The band joining his head and ankles represents the lightning he creates. He's pretty cool looking. This was definitely some of the best (biggest, most detailed, most interesting) rock art I've seen in Australia so far.

And on our drive to our campsite, we saw a dingo. Poor guy-so skinny!

Gagadju Adventure Tour

When you visit Kakadu National Park, you hear that two of the main attractions are Jim Jim and Twin Falls. However, you can't get there during the wet season because the roads are flooded, and no tours were visiting the area while we were there (the end of the dry season), because it was too hot. In order to drive on the road to the waterfalls yourself, you need 4WD along with a snorkel on your vehicle. We didn't have either. We heard that neither waterfall had a lot of water running over it anyway.


So we decided to do a day-long tour with Gagudju Adventure tours, because their 4WD vehicle would be able to take us to some other cool waterfall spots in the park. We met up with our driver and the other passengers in the morning, boarded the truck/bus thing, and were on our way. The first stop was Maguk, also known as Barramundi Gorge. You have to do a short hike to get to the waterfall, but the green plants everywhere and rock scrambles make it beautiful and fun.

After the hike, you reach Maguk Falls. It's not a huge waterfall, but the pool around it is great for a swim. We hung out here for awhile, just soaking in the pool, playing under the waterfall, and climbing the rocks.

After Maguk, we stopped on the side of the road and got out to take pictures with a large termite mound. You see these things everywhere in the park; some are really small and some are huge. I'll talk more about those when I get to my Litchfield post. But you can get an idea of the size by seeing how tall it is compared to me (I'm 5'8").

We had lunch at the park near Gunlom Falls. The Northern Territory is full of flies, and they buzz around your head and drive you crazy. We eventually invested in fly nets (you'll see those in later posts), but here's Zack using his cooling scarf as a makeshift fly swatter by creating a swinging arc to protect his head!

Gunlom Falls is where part of Crocodile Dundee was filmed. The scene where he spears the barramundi was shot on the banks of this plunge pool. We spent some more time swimming and hanging out here before heading back to Gagudju Lodge for a cold cider and beer. It was a pretty good day, though there was a lot of driving involved (Kakadu National Park is HUGE), and our guide didn't let us know that we could have hiked to the top of both waterfalls and had some good views and more plunge pools to enjoy. We probably should have just rented a 4WD vehicle and gone to these places ourselves, but oh well. I really can't complain when I spent my day swimming under waterfalls!

Other Things We Saw

Okay, I promise this is the last post about our Yellow Water Cruise in Kakadu. There's so much more to tell about our trip, and I need to get on to those other posts! But I couldn't help myself when I looked through my pictures and remembered some of the other beautiful sights we witnessed. So here's a taste of the non-crocodile and non-bird sights from that evening.

The lotus lilies were like huge bowls.

And those combined with the lily pads reminded me of a Monet painting.

We saw a tree snake and some strange tree fruit.

And there were awesome landscapes and beautiful wild horses.

This video will give you a taste of the peaceful cruise.

Going at sunset was probably the best decision. The lighting was amazing, especially reflected off Yellow Water Billabong. If you ever find yourself in the Northern Territory, I'd recommend the Yellow Water Cruise at the top of your must-do list!